Neo-Chypre Illusion
Zoologist Civet actually promises a time travel back to the era of the great, classic 70s chypres. However, this nostalgic DNA is not simply copied here, but completely reconstructed through modern molecules and contemporary perfumery techniques. The opening is loud and confrontational! One is met with an absolute overdose of spices. Turmeric and ginger are extremely present. But this spice storm calms down after just a few minutes and makes way for the citrus notes. However, it's not the sweet fruit pulp that comes through here, but purely the essential peel; at the center, an unmistakable, almost bitter orange peel. A grand visual image then emerges in the heart of the fragrance. The orange peel claws into a rough, brown leather, exactly the leather that Beatrix Kiddo wears in Kill Bill Vol. 2. This aesthetic is accompanied by a brilliant floral twist. The notorious "grandma tuberose" sheds its role as an oppressive domina and shows itself here to be surprisingly modern and playful. Together with the other floral notes, a mesmerizing, dense bouquet is created that immediately casts a spell over you. All of this finally settles on a soft, almost powdery-sweet base. And this is exactly where the big break is for me! For a fragrance that bears the name "Civet", I simply find the animality missing on the skin. The expected rough, animalic undertone is unfortunately almost completely absent. Additionally, the classic chypre structure dissolves into thin air far too quickly, which ultimately inevitably raises the question: "Is this even a real chypre anymore?" A technically strong, mesmerizing fragrance that, in the end, doesn't quite want to live up to its namesake promise.
