Pia Long: Finnish Perfumer Redefining Modern Fragrance Art

Pia Long's path to perfumery reads like a modern fairy tale of creative discovery. Born in Finland and raised in Helsinki, this multilingual artist initially planned to become an interpreter before a gap year changed everything. Her journey began at age 13 behind a perfume counter in Helsinki, where she first encountered the magic of fragrance.

After moving to the UK, Long graduated from the London College of Fashion in 1996 as a film, TV, and theatre makeup artist. This background in visual storytelling would later prove crucial to her perfumery approach. Her cosmetic science studies, where she learned to formulate lipsticks, sparked her passion for creating beauty products from scratch.

Long's perfumery education was unconventional yet comprehensive. Rather than attending traditional perfumery schools, she assembled 12 years of on-the-job learning, mentorship, and self-study. Her seven years as Junior Perfumer at Lush provided invaluable experience in scent development and team training. In 2016, she co-founded Olfiction with Nick Gilbert, a fragrance consultancy that partners with Accords & Parfums in Grasse.

Her artistic vision centers on "magic realism" - creating hyper-realistic accords then twisting them with fantasy elements. Long approaches perfumery like writing, building individual scenes that combine into a complete narrative. This storytelling approach makes her fragrances participatory art forms that invite wearers into immersive olfactory experiences.

Long's most celebrated creation, Terror & Magnificence for Beaufort London, exemplifies her narrative perfumery style. Inspired by Georgian architect Nicholas Hawksmoor, this complex composition combines church incense, candle wax, papyrus, and a distinctive wet stone accord reminiscent of London's first rain after summer heat.

The fragrance opens with powerful birch tar and black pepper, leading into ancient Egyptian Kyphi incense, frankincense, and papyrus. The base reveals Haitian vetiver, myrrh, and Long's signature stone accord, supported by warm benzoin and labdanum. This architectural fragrance demonstrates her ability to translate abstract concepts into wearable art.

Long's portfolio spans from designer brands to ultra-niche projects, including work for Zoologist, Ghost, Mercedes Benz, and Ford. Her non-commercial Mach-Eau for Ford cleverly incorporated automotive-inspired notes like benzaldehyde and para-cresol to challenge perceptions about electric vehicles.

Beyond creation, Long champions fragrance education and transparency. She serves on the British Society of Perfumers council and IFRA UK Executive Board, advocating for accessible perfumery knowledge. Her 2024 Septimus Piesse Visionary Award from the Institute of Art and Olfaction recognizes her exceptional vision and commitment to illuminating perfume creation processes. Through Olfiction and her luxury brand Boujee Bougies, Long continues pushing boundaries while mentoring the next generation of perfumers.