Miguel Matos: From Art Critic to Perfumer

Miguel Matos is a Portuguese perfumer based in Almada, near Lisbon, who came to fragrance creation through an unusual path. Before becoming a perfumer, he worked as an art critic and journalist — serving as editor at Time Out Portugal, co-founding the art and culture magazine Umbigo, and contributing to Vogue Portugal. Since 2013 he has also been an editor and columnist at Fragrantica, giving him a unique dual perspective as both critic and creator.

Entirely self-taught, Matos systematically studied every book on perfumery he could find before his talent was recognised by perfumer Christian Carbonnel (a.k.a. Chris Maurice), who became his mentor. Carbonnel invited him to his laboratory, provided high-quality raw materials, and offered the technical guidance that helped transform Matos from passionate autodidact into professional perfumer. His first commercially released fragrance was Jungle Jezebel for Sarah Baker Perfumes in 2018 — a bold debut inspired by the cult figure Divine.

Matos' work is deeply rooted in vintage perfumery traditions, particularly the great chypres, which he considers "one of the highest forms of perfume composition." Yet his compositions are far from nostalgic reproductions — they combine classical structures with modern, unexpected twists. His fragrances thrive on contrast and surprise, balancing complexity with wearability. As he puts it: "I always put wearability first, unless I am asked for something completely crazy."

His signature materials include rose, oakmoss, amber, and ylang-ylang. Among his influences he counts Germaine Cellier as his idol, alongside Sophia Grojsman, Guy Robert, and Edmond Roudnitska.

With over 100 compositions to his name, Matos has built an impressive portfolio. His creation Young Hearts for Bruno Acampora won the Art & Olfaction Award 2020 in the Independent Category, and he has been a finalist multiple times since. He currently serves as Creative Director and in-house perfumer for Bruno Acampora Profumi.

For Sarah Baker Perfumes, he created Jungle Jezebel, a wild and theatrical composition, and Prism Head, a bold patchouli fragrance featuring petrichor and geosmin notes that capture the scent of rain on dry earth. His work spans numerous independent houses across Europe and beyond, making him one of the most prolific perfumers to emerge from the indie scene in recent years.