Dmitry Bortnikoff: Master of Natural Oud Perfumery

Dmitry Bortnikoff's path to becoming one of the most respected names in niche perfumery began far from the fragrance world. Originally trained as an architect at the Moscow Architectural Institute, Bortnikoff discovered his true calling during his extensive travels through Asia, where the continent's rich perfume traditions captivated his senses. This exposure to authentic oud and traditional distillation methods sparked a passion that would transform him from architect to artisan perfumer.

In 2013, Bortnikoff co-founded Feel-Oud with Russian Adam, specializing in distilling oils from precious agarwood and sandalwood. This foundational experience taught him the intricate art of working with rare natural materials and traditional 19th-century distillation techniques. By 2017, he was ready to launch his eponymous brand Bortnikoff, establishing operations in Thailand where he could access the finest raw materials and work within more flexible regulatory frameworks that allow the use of genuine natural ingredients often restricted in Western markets.

What sets Bortnikoff apart is his unwavering commitment to authenticity. His fragrances contain between 85% to 100% natural ingredients, with many oils distilled in-house. He sources extraordinary materials like Siberian deer musk, wild Vietnamese agarwood, and real white ambergris, creating compositions that can contain up to 50 components. His philosophy prioritizes artistic vision over cost calculations, using desired materials in whatever quantities the composition demands.

Bortnikoff's portfolio showcases remarkable versatility while maintaining his signature approach to natural luxury. Amber Cologne demonstrates his ability to create fresh, wearable compositions that still feature precious ingredients like grey and brown ambergris alongside multiple oud varieties. The fragrance perfectly balances citrus brightness with exotic depth, proving that natural perfumery can be both accessible and sophisticated.

His oud-focused creations reveal the true artistry of his craft. Lao Oud represents one of his most powerful and animalic compositions, featuring oils from Laos that smell of honey and flowers with characteristic animal notes. The fragrance incorporates his memories of over 20 visits to Laos, blending the precious oud with coffee, frangipani, and incense notes that evoke ancient monasteries along the Mekong River.

Sayat Nova, inspired by the 18th-century Armenian poet, showcases Bortnikoff's storytelling ability through scent. The composition opens with syrupy apricot and narcissus before revealing a heart of rum and vanilla, all supported by a complex base of three different ouds. Meanwhile, Musk Khabib demonstrates his mastery of animalic materials, featuring genuine deer musk alongside ambergris and oakmoss in a composition that balances power with wearability.

Each Bortnikoff creation is released in limited batches, as the natural variability of ingredients like oud makes exact replication impossible. This approach ensures that every bottle represents a unique moment in time, captured through the perfumer's exceptional skill and dedication to natural artistry.