Philippine Courtière: Master of Oriental-French Perfumery

Philippine Courtière's path to becoming one of today's most respected perfumers began in an unexpected place. Born into a family deeply rooted in luxury - her grandfather Jacques Rouët co-founded Dior, while her parents worked at Givenchy - she initially pursued law at Nanterre University. However, a pivotal internship at a perfume house changed everything, leading her to abandon her legal career for the art of scent creation.

Her professional journey started with formative experiences at Robertet and Takasago before joining Firmenich in 2009. Under the mentorship of legends like Francis Kurkdjian, Michel Almairac, and Jacques Cavallier, she honed her craft across Geneva, New York, and Paris. Named an official perfumer in 2014, Courtière made a bold move to Dubai that would define her signature style.

This relocation proved transformative, immersing her in the rich traditions of Middle Eastern perfumery. She developed a unique ability to bridge Parisian elegance with oriental opulence, creating fragrances that speak to both Western and Eastern sensibilities. Her technique of working with "blocks" of scent creates unexpected tensions and harmonies, resulting in compositions that are both clear and complex.

Currently a Senior Perfumer at Symrise since 2021, Courtière continues to push boundaries while honoring traditional craftsmanship. Her philosophy centers on storytelling through scent, creating what she calls "accessible luxury" that empowers the wearer and transports them to different times and places.

Courtière's portfolio showcases her versatility across luxury and niche brands, with each creation reflecting her distinctive East-meets-West aesthetic. Her work for Widian exemplifies this approach perfectly. Delma demonstrates her mastery of powdery florals, opening with mandarin and peach before revealing a heart of jasmine and nutmeg, settling into a base of marshmallow, vanilla, and saffron. The fragrance achieves remarkable longevity while maintaining an approachable sweetness that never feels synthetic.

Samar showcases another facet of her artistry, capturing the essence of gathering around desert fires. This spicy, smoky composition balances pink pepper and clove with elegant white florals, grounded by a deep base of oud, labdanum, and vanilla. The fragrance tells the story of connection and shared experiences, embodying Courtière's belief that perfume should evoke memories and emotions.

Her collaborations extend beyond Widian to prestigious houses like Goutal, Atkinsons, and Kayali Fragrances. Each creation bears her signature clarity and narrative structure, whether she's crafting the rose-centered elegance of Rose Pompon for Goutal or the cherry-tobacco intensity of Lovefest Burning Cherry for Kayali.

Courtière's influence extends beyond individual fragrances to her role in interpreting oriental codes for global audiences. Her work with Symrise on relaunching Maison Lautier 1795 emphasizes sustainable, ethically sourced materials, reflecting her commitment to responsible luxury. Through her mentorship and innovative compositions, she continues building a legacy that honors perfumery's past while shaping its future.