Isabelle Doyen: Master of Green Florals and Poetic Perfumery

Isabelle Doyen's journey into perfumery began with childhood memories of exotic blooms in Tahiti, where her scientist father's work exposed her to the intoxicating scents of Tiaré, Ylang Ylang, and Frangipani. This early immersion in tropical fragrances would later influence her distinctive approach to scent creation.

Her formal entry into perfumery came through a chance encounter at a dinner party, where a Guerlain employee introduced her to ISIPCA in Versailles. After graduating in 1982, Doyen embarked on an independent career that would establish her as one of France's most respected perfumers. Her first olfactory revelation came at age 15 with Balmain's Vent Vert, whose striking galbanum note would become a signature element in her own creations.

Doyen's artistic vision centers on creating fragrances that serve as a universal language - deeply personal yet broadly accessible. She describes her compositions as having the ability to "dishevel and intrigue without ever becoming overpowering." This philosophy manifests in her transparent, ethereal style that pairs neoclassical structures with bold, unconventional ingredients.

Her creative process draws inspiration from literature, particularly the works of Jorge Luis Borges and Rimbaud, as well as personal memories and cultural experiences. She approaches each fragrance as a dream made tangible, carrying a small notepad to capture fleeting inspirations and botanical discoveries.

Doyen's most significant partnership began in 1985 with Annick Goutal, leading to a prolific collaboration that produced beloved classics like Eau d'Hadrien and Petite Chérie. After Goutal's passing in 1999, Doyen continued working with the brand alongside Camille Goutal, maintaining the house's reputation for refined, emotionally resonant fragrances.

Her experimental side flourishes through Les Nez, where she explores avant-garde olfactory territories, and her collaboration with Naomi Goodsir resulted in the award-winning Nuit de Bakélite. This groundbreaking fragrance showcases Doyen's mastery of unconventional materials, transforming tuberose into something raw and almost industrial, supported by bitter galbanum and smoky leather notes.

The fragrance earned critical acclaim, winning "Best Niche & Independent Brand Fragrance 2018" from The Fragrance Foundation France. Its unique interpretation of tuberose - focusing on the stem rather than the bloom - exemplifies Doyen's ability to find beauty in unexpected places.

Beyond creation, Doyen shapes the future of perfumery through her teaching role at ISIPCA, where she has trained notable perfumers including Francis Kurkdjian and Mathilde Laurent. Her advice to aspiring perfumers emphasizes humility, curiosity, and the importance of being "sponges" for all forms of beauty and literature.

Today, Doyen continues her multifaceted career, creating for Goutal Paris, developing her natural fragrance line Voyages Imaginaires with Camille Goutal, and nurturing the next generation of perfumers through education.