Alexandra Carlin: Literary Perfumer Crafting Scented Stories

Alexandra Carlin's path to perfumery reads like a compelling novel itself. The Parisian perfumer initially dreamed of becoming a novelist before discovering her true calling at age 18. A radio interview with a perfumer sparked her passion, leading her to abandon literary studies for the scientific world of fragrance creation.

Her educational journey required determination and sacrifice. Carlin completed a scientific retraining course to meet chemistry requirements, then passed the competitive entrance exam for ISIPCA in Versailles on her first attempt. Her early career included prestigious internships at Dior, where she witnessed the creation of iconic scents like Dior Homme and Pure Poison.

The turning point came when she sought mentorship from Master Perfumer Maurice Roucel at Symrise. In a remarkable twist of fate, she later discovered that Roucel was the very perfumer whose radio interview had inspired her career change years earlier. Under his guidance, she developed her experimental approach to ingredient selection and storytelling through scent.

Carlin's literary background profoundly shapes her creative process. She treats raw materials like words in a novel, translating atmospheric descriptions from books into olfactory experiences. Her fragrances often draw inspiration from literary works, creating scented narratives that capture the essence of characters and settings. This unique approach sets her apart in an industry where technical skill meets artistic vision.

Carlin's portfolio spans prestigious houses from Amouage to Diptyque, showcasing her versatility across different fragrance families. Her work includes the acclaimed Honour Woman for Amouage, the innovative Tonka Blanc for L'Artisan Parfumeur, and the meditative Kyoto for Diptyque. Each creation demonstrates her ability to balance technical precision with emotional storytelling.

Her recent work includes Grand Master for Mind Games, a sophisticated composition that exemplifies her narrative approach. The fragrance opens with fresh peony and rose water, evolving into an unexpected coffee-rose heart before settling into a base of panettone, frankincense, and ebony wood. This unusual combination creates a scented story of contrasts - power and tenderness, sacred and gourmand.

Carlin's innovative spirit shines through her use of novel ingredients. She created the first perfume featuring a natural vegetable extract with Tonka Blanc, while her love for Madagascan ginger has influenced multiple compositions. Her experimental approach extends to exploring culinary inspirations, finding olfactory potential in unexpected ingredients like asparagus and artichoke.

Now serving as Senior Fine Fragrance Perfumer at IFF since 2024, Carlin continues pushing creative boundaries. Her award-winning work, including the Fragrance Foundation-recognized Velvet Tonka for BDK Parfums, demonstrates her growing influence on modern perfumery. Her quest for innovation, fed by exchanges with fellow perfumers and constant exploration of new materials, ensures her continued impact on the fragrance industry.