Julie Massé: From Tokyo to Grasse, A Modern Perfumer's Journey

Julie Massé's path to perfumery began in an unexpected place - Tokyo, where she was born and lived until age five. This early exposure to Japanese aesthetics would later influence her creative vision, but it was her family's roots in Grasse that truly shaped her destiny. Her father's work in the perfume industry meant young Julie grew up surrounded by fragrance samples and raw materials, sparking a fascination that would define her career.

After studying chemistry for three years, Massé enrolled at ISIPCA in Versailles, the prestigious perfumery school. Her real education began in Grasse, working in quality control at Fragrance Resources, where she gained deep knowledge of raw materials. This foundation proved invaluable when she began her three-year mentorship under legendary perfumer Pierre Bourdon, who taught her the traditional Jean Carle method of "narrative perfumery" - composing formulas on paper like describing a landscape.

Massé's artistic vision centers on creating an "invisible companion" for the wearer, a protective halo of energy that provides strength and confidence. She draws inspiration primarily from natural ingredients, particularly the orange tree in all its forms - blossom, fruit, rind, leaf, and neroli. Her Mediterranean roots shine through in her work, often visiting farmers' fields of rose, jasmine, and tuberose in Grasse for inspiration.

Since joining MANE in 2010, Massé has become known for her collaborative approach and ability to balance traditional techniques with innovative extraction methods. Her work spans major fashion houses like Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent, while also serving as the in-house perfumer for niche brand Shay & Blue since 2012.

Massé's breakthrough came with Giorgio Armani Sì, co-created with Christine Nagel, which became a commercial phenomenon and established her reputation in mainstream perfumery. The fragrance's success led to numerous flankers, including Sì Passione and Sì Fiori, each showcasing her ability to evolve a signature while maintaining its core identity.

Her work with Armani Privé demonstrates her versatility, particularly Thé Yulong, which earned a nomination for Fragrance of the Year at the 2021 Fragrance Foundation Awards. These creations showcase her talent for translating diverse cultural inspirations into accessible yet sophisticated compositions.

Perhaps most intriguing is her venture into conceptual perfumery with The Ghost in the Shell for Etat Libre d'Orange. This cyberpunk-inspired fragrance utilizes cutting-edge molecules like Vinyl Gaiacol and Orcanox™, creating what reviewers describe as a "cyborg skin scent" that merges synthetic and natural elements. The fragrance opens with metallic yuzu and Aqual™, evolving into a milky skin accord that feels simultaneously human and post-human.

Massé's ongoing partnership with Shay & Blue represents her commitment to artisanal perfumery. Working closely with founder Dom De Vetta, she creates fragrances through rich dialogue and visual inspiration, often drawing from Turner paintings and 18th-century imagery. This collaborative process exemplifies her belief that perfumery is about storytelling and emotional connection.

Her legacy lies in bridging traditional French perfumery techniques with modern innovation, creating fragrances that feel both timeless and futuristic. As she continues to explore new extraction methods and synthetic molecules while honoring natural ingredients, Massé represents the evolution of contemporary perfumery.