Julie Marlowe: Master of Bold Maritime Fragrances

Julie Marlowe, also known professionally as Julie Dunkley, has carved out a distinctive path in British perfumery through her bold, narrative-driven approach to fragrance creation. Her journey began in 1988 with a lab apprenticeship at FD&O after leaving school, marking the start of what would become a remarkable career spanning over three decades.

Her true passion for perfumery ignited at Belmay Fragrances in 1991, where she started as a Lab Technician working alongside Lisa Hipgrave. Through dedication and natural talent, she progressed to become a trainee perfumer and eventually a full perfumer after six years. This foundational experience shaped her understanding of both the technical and artistic aspects of fragrance creation.

Marlowe's career trajectory continued through various prestigious houses including Symrise, Phoenix Fragrances, and currently Sozio UK, where she serves as Senior Perfumer. Her leadership in the industry is further demonstrated by her role as President of the British Society of Perfumers, a position she held in 1997 and again in 2023/2024, showcasing her commitment to advancing the art and science of perfumery.

What sets Marlowe apart is her fearless approach to challenging conventional fragrance boundaries. Her work consistently features bold ingredients used in high concentrations, creating what she describes as "overdosed" compositions that deliver powerful olfactory experiences. This philosophy has made her particularly sought after for projects requiring unconventional and provocative scent profiles.

Marlowe's most celebrated work comes through her collaboration with Beaufort London, where she has created a collection of fragrances that redefine maritime perfumery. Her creations like Fathom V, which won the Art and Olfaction Award in 2017, demonstrate her ability to translate complex historical narratives into compelling olfactory experiences.

Her signature style emerges through fragrances like Tonnerre, inspired by the Battle of Trafalgar, and Vi et Armis, which captures the essence of East India Trading Company voyages. These compositions showcase her mastery of smoky, woody, and spicy accords, often incorporating unusual notes like gunpowder, birch tar, and ink to create atmospheric storytelling through scent.

Cœur de Noir exemplifies her ability to blend literary inspiration with olfactory artistry, referencing nautical fiction and maritime art through accords of black ink, spiced rum, and leather-bound books. Meanwhile, Lignum Vitae demonstrates her innovative spirit by combining wood, metal, and salt elements inspired by marine chronometers.

Marlowe's legacy lies in her fearless exploration of challenging territories in perfumery. Her fragrances consistently push boundaries while maintaining refinement and wearability. Through her work, she has established herself as a master of atmospheric perfumery, creating scents that transport wearers to specific times and places through bold, uncompromising compositions that challenge preconceptions about what modern fragrance can achieve.